Culinary mastermind Blaine Wetzel at the Willows Inn on Lummi Island is currently shining an incredible spotlight on this secret island, near Bellingham, WA. In April he was named a Best New Chef for 2012 by Food & Wine magazine. His prowess has also made the Willows Inn one of the world’s 10 restaurants worth a plane ride. It has been featured in the New York Times, Travel + Leisure Magazine, the Today Show and much more. And Blaine’s amazing meals truly are worth all the fuss.
So where is Lummi Island? How do you get there? What is there to do on the island? (After your fabulous dinner at the Willows Inn of course.) And what is there to see and do near Lummi Island? After all, if you’re going to fly here for dinner, (or drive) you’d might as well relax and stay here for a few days. Right?
Lummi Island is part of the San Juan Islands Archipelago, in Washington State’s northern Puget Sound. However, it cannot be accessed via the traditional Washington State Ferry System. Lummi Island is close to the shoreline near Bellingham, WA and is therefore part of Whatcom County. The Lummi Island Ferry is a small, 10-car vessel, operated by the county to service Lummi Island from the mainland. It runs several times an hour, about every 20Â minutes.
The easiest way to fly here is to fly directly into Bellingham International Airport (via Alaska Airlines, Allegiant Airlines or Frontier Airlines) and rent a car at the airport, which happens to be conveniently located adjacent to the I-5 freeway.
To drive here from either Seattle or Vancouver, B.C., take the I-5 freeway to Bellingham. To get to Lummi Island, take the I-5 exit 260 (Slater Road), travel west 4 miles to Haxton Way. Turn left on Haxton and travel south 7 miles (passing through the Lummi Nation) to the ferry terminal. The ferry ride takes 10 minutes. Once onto the island, turn right and travel 3 miles to get to the Willows Inn. It is also a 10 minute trip all the way around the island (7 miles total) and back to the ferry terminal.
If you are trying to get dinner reservations at the Willows Inn (currently one of the hottest tickets in the world), the trick is to also make plans to stay overnight. The hotel currently gives priority in its limited dining room to overnight guests. There are 20 rooms available, and they do book many months in advance. There are also numerous boutique hotels in Bellingham (see below), which is a short drive to and from Lummi Island.
What is there to do on Lummi Island?
Lummi Island is half flat-land agricultural community and half mountainous nature reserve. The most popular visitor activities on Lummi Island are sea kayaking, hiking, biking, wine tasting and relaxing.
For the adventurous, guided sea kayak tours are offered by Elakah Expeditions, Wed – Sun, in May through September. Groups paddle in tandem (2 person) kayaks past 700-foot cliffs rising out the water to see a variety of wildlife including bald eagles, peregrine falcons, seals, and sometimes Orca whales.
Hikers enjoy the Baker Preserve Trail, which climbs 1,050 feet to the ridge of the island and provides spectacular views. My colleague Jacqueline recently wrote a first hand account of her experience hiking on Lummi Island with her family.
For leisurely biking on Lummi Island, the quiet county roads on the northern side are ideal. Day-trippers usually park their cars on the mainland and walk on the ferry with their bikes. The Willows Inn also offers bikes to guests on a first-come-first-served basis.
The Lummi Island Artists Studio Tour occurs three times a year – Memorial Day in May, Labor Day in September, and the second weekend in November. Artists in a wide variety of mediums from paintings to pottery to leatherwork and quilts shows their work at nearly a dozen locations on the island. Maps can be found at The Islander Store, near the ferry dock.
What else is there to do near Lummi Island (in Bellingham and Whatcom County)?
The surrounding Bellingham region is a paradise for foodies who are into local, sustainable and foraged foods. Numerous chefs and restaurants have embraced and cultivated this concept. Visitors are encouraged to pick up or download a copy of the Whatcom Food Finder, which lists a vast array of small farms, fisheries, markets and cafes to explore. Pair these with quaint shopping districts, art galleries and many festivals and events. It’s worth staying an extra day or two on the mainland as well.
Our corner of Washington State is unique for its close proximity to both the sea and the mountains. Snow-capped Mt. Baker dominates the view to the east and is an easy 60-mile drive from the water. Much of the Mt. Baker Highway (State Route 542) is within the evergreen-laden Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, overflowing with trails for hiking and mountain biking in the summer months and snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the winter months. The Mount Baker Ski Area also operates from November through April.
Bellingham Bay also provides plentiful water activities, including sea kayaking, Stand Up Paddleboarding, kiteboarding. Charter sailing and motor vessel cruises depart regularly from the Bellingham Cruise Terminal and Squalicum Harbor to points throughout the Salish Sea, including the San Juan Islands.
Among our many local food celebrities is Jennifer Hahn, author of Pacific Feast, who often pairs with Mateo & Jessica at Ciao Thyme to offer guided foraging tours in the Mt. Baker foothills and on the shoreline. Imagine a day of collecting Grand Fir needles, wild ferns and seaweed, followed by an evening cooking demonstration filled with recipes for enjoying these ultra-local ingredients. Ciao Thyme also offers a year-round schedule of gourmet cooking events based on ingredients gathered weekly at the Bellingham Farmer’s Market.
Whatcom County grows more red-raspberries than any other location in the United States. The fields are located near the picturesque town of Lynden, WA, which has held tight to its Dutch Heritage through the decades. Each July, Lynden hosts the Northwest Raspberry Festival in the height of harvest season.
If you are searching for additional accommodations nearby, the Silver Reef Hotel, Casino, Spa is located on the corner of Slater Road and Haxton Way (on your way to or from the Lummi Island ferry). It features 105 rooms, a full service spa, swimming pool, gaming and seven dining options, including the award-winning Steak House.
Three hotels in Bellingham are located at the edge of Bellingham Bay with gorgeous views of Lummi Island. Hotel Bellwether is known for its unique Lighthouse Suite. It is located at Bellingham’s busy Squalicum Harbor, where yachts and fishing boats are friendly neighbors. Nearby is downtown Bellingham, home to a cultural arts district featuring the Whatcom Museum, Mount Baker Theatre, Pickford Film Center, Spark Museum of Electrical Invention and numerous art galleries.
On the south side of Bellingham Bay is the Historic Fairhaven District home to The Chrysalis Inn & Spa and the Fairhaven Village Inn. Fairhaven is a great location for browsing in shops, sipping a latte or enjoying an ice cream cone. A great trail stretches from the Fairhaven Village Inn at the corner of 10th Street to The Chrysalis Inn at Taylor Avenue and then out across the water on Taylor Dock to grassy Boulevard Park with fantastic views of sailboats, kayakers and paddle boarders on the water.
A fabulous dinner at the Willows Inn on Lummi Island can easily be expanded into a relaxing, multi-day, foodie and adventure vacation in this beautiful, small-town region in the northwest corner of Washington State.